A dash cam is only useful if it captures the detail that matters — like a license plate — when you need it. Here are the specs that actually count.

Resolution: enough to read a plate

Higher resolution means more detail. 1080p is the practical minimum; 1440p (2K) is a noticeable step up for reading plates a few cars ahead; 4K captures the most detail but produces larger files. Resolution matters most combined with a good sensor — a cheap “4K” camera can look worse than a quality 1080p one.

Field of view (FOV)

FOV is how wide the camera sees, in degrees. Around 140–160° is the sweet spot: wide enough to catch adjacent lanes without so much fisheye distortion that distant objects shrink. Very wide angles look impressive but can make plates harder to read.

Night vision

Most incidents you’ll want footage of happen in low light. Look for a larger sensor, a wide aperture (low f-number like f/1.8), and HDR/WDR (wide dynamic range), which balances bright headlights against dark surroundings so plates aren’t blown out.

Parking mode

Parking mode records while you’re away, triggered by motion or impact. The catch: it needs constant power. That means either a hardwiring kit (wired to your fuse box, ideally with a battery-protection cutoff) or a model with a built-in capacitor/battery. A cam plugged into a socket that dies with the ignition won’t record while parked.

Nice-to-haves

Front-and-rear (or interior) channels for rideshare drivers, GPS to log speed and location, a capacitor (not a battery) for heat resistance in hot climates, and reliable loop recording with a quality microSD card.

Bottom line: aim for at least 1080p (1440p is better) with ~150° FOV and strong HDR night performance, and make sure you can power parking mode properly. Those beat any single headline number.

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